Friday 23 July 2010


"Beautiful day. Glorious. I needn't have brought my jacket..."

Me and Ioan decide to visit Corcovado - Christ the Redeemer statue which overlooks Rio.

We catch a taxi outside a shop in Santa Teresa, and we are off in what I can only describe as a bile curdling journey by a driver who is hell bent on meeting his maker. We swerve dangerously at high speed from one side of the narrow road to the other as we make our way up the long, and twisty road to the top of the mountain. Jesus looks down at us with his wide stone arms welcoming us up.

I don't want to die on my way to meet Jesus, i say to myself, as I try desperately try to stop myself form being sick.

We arrive safe and sound at the redeemers feet.

We decide to tell Schumacher not to wait, we'll get another taxi down the hill, thanks!

The monument is unbelievable. 39.6m tall, high on a mountain 750m above the sea. But it is the view of the city that takes your breath away. Its like a prehistoric land dotted with skyscrapers at the shore and iggledy piggledy favelas clinging on to the hillside for dear life, and all surrounded by rainforest. Amazing.

I film Ioan reciting "Treftadaeth" for the Cydweli 900 celebration.

And we make our way down the hill in a leisurely taxi ride to meet Wallace Cardia at Spectaculu. The meeting is arranged by Paul Heritage of the People's Palace, and it is great to see a school which trains young people from the favelas to become professionals in the creative industries. Photography, set design, set building, make up , and costume design are taught. The school receives its funding from private sponsorship, and donations. It is an impressive programme.

We get a bite to eat in Santa Teresa and then prepare for our performance of the Wallace play at Tavares Bartos a favela, whose views over the bay look out onto Sugar Loaf.

We arrive promptly at 8, at the Maze Inn, the home of the prolific Bob Nadkarni, who at six years old, tore a picture from a magazine, of a little white house fringed with coconut palms and stuck it to his bedhead.

Not dissimilar to Wallace.

The website describes Bob (http://basebrazil.com/):-

"Son of a clergyman and a playwright, Bob studied fine arts in London, was sculptor on Stanley Kubrick's 2001, A Space Odyssey, a war cameraman in the Middle East and a BBC TV correspondent in Brazil. During the making of more than four hundred documentaries, he broke bread with rich and poor, poets and gangsters, cowboys, ministers, thinkers, musicians, generals and mothers of the tortured. He wandered through dazzling palaces and the rubble of destroyed civilisations. Longing to return to painting, he opted to build a studio home in a Rio favela. Underneath he created a community centre with adult literacy schooling and a free pre-natal clinic followed by an art gallery. Then in 2004, the idea of The MAZE Inn was born so that open-minded people could stay amongst the real Brazilians and feel the pulse of Rio de Janeiro. Bob is married and has four children, is preparing his next exhibition and writing his first novel."

The performance goes well, and the name of Alfred Russel Wallace is introduced to another group of people.

This impromptu evening is arranged by Bill, our host at our hotel, who during the week had mentioned that he loved Under Milk Wood, so me and Ioan read the beginning of the play for him.

Interestingly none of the audience had heard of Dylan Thomas either.

What is it with Welsh geniuses that they are so easily overlooked.

The evening ends with us listening to the band, whose singer studied languages in Cardiff, and who speaks welsh.
It's a small world - but I wouldn't want to paint it!

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